Concept Notes: Kathmandu — Pashupatinath's Chaos & Baudhnath's Serenity
1. Author and Literary Context
Vikram Seth's Kathmandu is an excerpt from his renowned travel narrative From Heaven Lake: Travels Through Sinkiang and Tibet. He arrives in Kathmandu after hitchhiking from China through Tibet, capturing Nepal's capital with remarkable photographic and sensory precision.
2. Pashupatinath Temple: An Atmosphere of "Febrile Confusion"
At the ancient Hindu shrine of Lord Shiva (Pashupatinath):
- Entry Restrictions: A signboard proclaims: "Entrance for the Hindus only."
A party of saffron-clad Westerners struggles with a Nepali policeman, trying to convince him they are bona fide Hindus.
- The Tumult inside the Shrines: Priests, hawkers, devotees, tourists, cows, monkeys, and pigeons jostle for space. Devotees elbow their way to the front; a royal princess appears and everyone bows.
- Sacred Bagmati Riverfront:
- On the banks, a corpse is being cremated on a stone platform.
- Washerwomen wash clothes nearby; children bathe in the holy water.
- From a balcony, a basket of withered flowers and old offerings is dropped into the river.
- Monkey Shenanigans: Two monkeys fight violently; one chases the other onto a shivalinga, then screams across to the river and down to the Bagmati.
- The End-of-Kali-Yuga Myth: A small shrine half-submerged on the river bank is said to signify the end of the evil age of Kali Yuga when it emerges completely.
3. Baudhnath Stupa: The Haven of Transcendental Stillness
In utter contrast to Pashupatinath, the Buddhist shrine of Baudhnath offers immense peace:
- Architecture: An enormous white dome crowned by the all-seeing eyes of the Buddha, ringed by a broad circular pathway.
- Atmosphere: Complete absence of shouting or chaotic bustle.
- Tibetan Immigrant Enclave: Small shops owned by Tibetan immigrants line the outer perimeter, selling felt bags, Tibetan prints, and antique silver jewellery.
- Seth remarks that Baudhnath is a serene sanctuary of silence within the busy city.